Grooming Advice
I make a real effort with my skin; I use a good razor, a good quality shave gel, after-shave balm and moisturise everyday. All this, and I still get terrible shaving rash. I find it best to only shave every five days or so but I don't like doing this as it leaves me feeling grubby. Do you have anything else I can try as want to sort this problem out? I would like to go to the shaving class but live in Bath.
Try shaving in the shower with a handheld mirror. The hot steam will allow your pores to open naturally and help remove impurities from your skin. Use a Gillette razor, as they’re the best on the market, and apply a shaving cream with a brush. This will help your stubble stand on end and so make for a smoother shave. If this doesn’t work, try using a moisturiser instead of shaving cream – even a simple aqueous cream will do – to soothe your skin during the shave. You might also try a pre-shave balm, while exfoliating twice a week could really help. Finish with cold water to close the pores, then apply an alum block to your face to ease razor burn. A calming aftershave ice gel will then set you up perfectly for the day. If you’re ever in town, our shaving classes should teach you everything you need to know.
I am a 27-year-old man with a pathetic amount of facial hair. No matter how regularly I shave (wet and dry) it does not have any impact on the rate of growth. It’s sparse at best. Do you have any tips that could stimulate my facial hair growth?
– Peter Shambleton, Newquay
You’re out of luck – no amount of shaving will stimulate your facial hair growth. Take it as a bonus, by the time you’re 57 you’ll look 37 as you won’t have had to scrape a razor over your face for 30 years.
I seem to be one of those men destined to lose their hair before their time, and at just 25 I have reached a point where it’s drastically thinning and very noticeable. Please can you advise me of a hair style and cut I can have to enjoy the little time I have left with my hair.
– Sam Murphy, Cork, Ireland
Most haircuts are built by attempting to create a square cut across your head. If you’re balding, though, a rounder cut will look better. Keep your hair short and cut to the same length all over. Then ask your barber to round off the corners on the top of your head to create a nice, even blend. Keep your eyes peeled on our website, too, as we’ll be launching the perfect hair thickening shampoo for you in the new year. In the meantime, use our defining gel as its seaweed biopeptides help thicken hair.
Is it just me or does David Beckham’s current hair cut look a little desperate? As he gets older his dress sense seems bang-on but his recent hair style, with its short sides and long, overly-manicured top just looks too try-hard. What type of hair cut do you think looks cool but not too cool?
– Don Little, London
Our advice is to always go with the classics. There’s a reason iconic, timeless haircuts still look good today. Have a look at our Hair Icons page for some styles that have yet to fade and always be wary of a look that’s great for a photoshoot but isn’t possible to manage on a day-to-day basis. Having said that, experiment with your style in your 20s – but once past 30, you should know what looks good on you.
I’ve had the same, Bieber-esque hair cut for the last few years of my youth. At 24 I now need to mature my look and wanted to try to quiff my hair. I've had my hair cut into that style but I can't get seem to get it to stay up without over-using products, which then makes my hair look greasy and thin. How can I keep my hair natural-looking yet nail the perfect quiff?
– Robbie Spencer, London
There are few finer haircuts than the quiff and there has always been something incredibly masculine about maintaining one. Think of James Dean running his hands through the sides of his hair, or Elvis in his pomp.
After showering, towel dry your hair, then run a reasonable sized amount of our Styling Conditioner through it. It will give hold all day, while it will also thicken your hair to give body. Don’t use a moulding cream as it could make your hair look greasy. Then step outside and bask in a beautiful haircut.
I live in the U.S. and have heard about your barber shop from the blog Permanent Style. I plan to visit the shop when I am next in London but in the mean time I was hoping you could give me some advice about how to professionally style my hair. It is curly, coarse, and thick. I am 22 so I still want to look young but don't know what to do.
– Lawson Poole, New York
We’d love to see you in the shop when you’re over. But in the meantime, and without having seen your hair, our advice for short, curly hair is to keep it close through the sides and wear it like Montgomery Clift’s classic short, back and sides. If your hair is longer but not too dry, you can wear it a little looser – think Vincent Gallo in Buffalo ’66. But for very curly, dry hair, it’s best to opt for a regular, short and simple cut to avoid heading into afro territory.
There are so many gels, pomades, grits and waxes on the market and to be honest I still don’t know which ones are designed for what. Can you give me a breakdown of their purpose and tell me exactly what I should be using?
– Quentin, London, via Facebook
All of the products you’ve mentioned are really only for short hair. If your hair has any length at all, use a styling conditioner or for medium length hair, use a defining gel. For short hair, we think our moulding cream is the best on the market – it provides excellent styling, it washes out easily and it doesn’t have any lumps which could tangle in your hair. Plus, it’s infused with out great signature scent.
After just reaching the big 4-0, I’m starting to get a taste for the finer things in life. I feel the need to learn how to shave like a real man, with a cut-throat razor. Any pointers?
Shaving yourself with a cut-throat razor sounds like a recipe for disaster. It’s called a cut-throat razor. There’s a reason for that. Leave those to the professionals. Cartridge razors – we recommend the Gillette Mach3 or Gillette Fusion – are very good these days and, while safety razors look great, they are trickier to use. Even more important, though, is using a good shaving cream (not a gel or foam from a can) as it will help the hair on your beard stand up to create a closer shave. Open your pores with a hot towel, or use shower steam for the same effect, then apply the cream with a brush or your fingers before shaving with the grain. Once finished, close your pores with cold water, then use something like our Aftershave Ice Gel to seal your skin and provide the perfect finish.
I’m 24 and receding at a pretty alarming rate. What’s the secret to covering it up without it looking obvious?
– Carl Applegate, Leicester, via email
Don’t cover it up, Carl. The most important thing if your hair is receding is not to attempt side partings, comb-overs or any kind of camouflage – people will see through it, and you’ll look ridiculous. Instead, wear your hair short and evenly all over. Most haircuts are built around creating a square shape for your head but if you’re receding ask for the corners to be cut off the top. It will create a rounder haircut which will better suit the shape of your hairline.
I’m a big fan of this side-sweep thing that men like David Beckham and Ryan Gosling are donning at the moment. How can I persuade my boyfriend to ditch his aging, spiky Estate Agent’s do and get in on the action?
– Emily, London, via Twitter
Ryan Gosling’s hair is also based on the Steve McQueen. Again, ask for a haircut that is cut tightly to your hairline, then ask your barber to cut into your parting so your hair separates and sweeps perfectly across. Use moulding cream to shape the look: apply a 5p-sized amount to your palm and then start by styling the sides before finishing with the top. David Beckham’s hair is slightly longer so ask for graduated, side-parted cut to that sits back nicely into the back of the neck. For longer hair, use styling conditioner to shape.
My hair colour and texture is not too dissimilar to Damien Lewis’ of Homeland. What’s the best hair cut for thick, auburn hair in your opinion? I have it buzzed right down at present.
– Tom, Glasgow, via email
As a rule of thumb, there are three basic haircuts: Peter Fonda in Easy Rider for long hair, Elvis for a medium-length cut, and Steve McQueen for short hair. Damien Lewis’s look is, whether intentionally or not, based on the Steve McQueen cut. If you’ve got thick hair, get it cut sharply at the sides as it will grow out bushy. Ask your barber for a good, technical haircut shaped tightly and neatly around the hairline. A rough rule of thumb with hair like that is to keep it short and sharp, then maintain it with moulding cream.